Riding the Grease: the Great SW Moto Tour

[demenshea]

Quite frankly, I don't even know where to begin, so starting in the middle seems like a good idea. Riding the grease was coined on the final days of this journey by a fellow rider who had commented on the horrible "tar snakes" he has encountered in CO and UT. I loved the expression for it pegs how riding on tar snakes is much like riding warm slippery grease. I decided the great SW Tour ride report was to be christened, "riding the grease".

I began this ride solo but was fortunate enough to have my currently "job free" husband join me for part of this marathon 4K journey. I left Sacramento to check on my dad in Yerington and ended up staying there for several days haunted by bad weather and my 83 year old father's dubious reality. The combination without a mental enema was a recipe for disaster for a touring motorcyclist. Thus I endured Yerington and my father's questionable state and when I was confident there was little more I could do about either him or the weather, I got on my trusty Bandito and headed south, seeking less of a destination than an escape fantasy.

The Sierras get some weather...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0059.1.jpg

Yerington
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0056.1.jpg

My fantasy needed some space and it seems NV, AZ, UT, CO, & CA could provide just that. Gary decided to meet me in Gilbert, where our Pashnit pal Renee (Backmarker) lives, but prior to that, with my head recently filled by Frenchy750's fabulous tale, The Road to Wrestlemania (http://www.pashnit.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21766&highlight=wrestlemania), I felt the need to see Show Low , AZ and Dean and Pam's Famous Motorcyclist Cafe Bed & Barn, a private oasis set up by Dean for his motorcyclist friends and family, of which I am now part, after successfully riding the dirt/gravel road out to the hideaway. But not before Dean had rescued me on the highway's edge with a very flat flat. But hey, I'm getting ahead of myself.

Noteworthy trip addendums: Wifi at McDonalds...who would have thought? Oh ya, and bun free burgers at In and Out Burger, for those of us perpetually low-carbing! Snakes like laying on warm desert highways, beware. Park rangers don't have much of a sense of humor. A loaded Bandit is heavier than usual. And NEVER leave off your oil plug after checking or adding oil.

Ah the experience of motorbike travel...

Leaving Yerington at a timely noonish, I made my way south stopping only for gas when needed. I did meet two wonderful doods heading for the Veteran's Memorial in DC. They too were at the start of their journey. We exchanged greetings and they asked me if I wanted to ride with them since we both seemed to be heading south. I declined the offer, after they told me they liked "cruising" 60mph, which in the NV desert is much like moving in slow mo! :scratch We parted smiling and I knew that would be the last I saw of them. Once I got to Vegas, I realized I didn't want to be in Vegas. Though the sun had set and it was rapidly becoming pitch black, I kept going until I got to BullHead City, 509 miles later, where I found a motel.

Raring to go as the sun rose, I realized I was 1/2 Qt low on oil so I picked up a quart added 1/2, packed everything and rode off. Less than 3 miles later, I, covered in oil realized my error. OMG, what a mess! Suddenly, riding solo seems really lonely...

As I assessed the mess, I knew that "hosing it off" wasn't going to do it. I called the local shop, AZ Performance Motorcycle. In less than an hour, the shops owner's wife and I had the bike loaded in a trailer and we went back to search for the oil plug in the parking lot of Walmart. Amazingly...we found it. For some reason, by virtue of the shop name, I hadn't expected a Harley shop, but they cleaned the bike up and had me back on the road at the low low cost of 80bucks total including towing the bike in. Phew...the ride moron good karma, holds yet again.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4220.1.jpg

Now, let's go see those other asses in Oatman. :rolleye

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4221.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4223.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4225.1.jpg

How appropriate...and about that nice little number in the background, hmmm wouldn't wear well with touring clothes... ; )
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4227.1.jpg

For a buck you can buy a bag of carrots to feed the four legged fuzzy ones.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4228.1.jpg

I swear when I parked there were NO other bikes...then suddenly I was surrounded by the ubiquitous Harleys! oh and one V Star.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4231.1.jpg

The road out of Oatman, AZ
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4232.1.jpg

Onward to Renee's and then off to Show Low the following day and who knows what other added adventure!!

Day one
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day1.jpg

Day two from Yerington after spending several days in Yerington so it wasn't really day two, but to simplify the story we'll call it day two...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day2.jpg

Day three
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day3.jpg

Day four
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day4.jpg

[demenshea]

After some great service from Show Low Motorsports, I proudly scrubbed my new rear tire on the dirt road to the MCB&B. At the beginning of Dean's private drive, we encountered two lads in a pickup truck with a freezer on the back selling steaks. Hmmmm....One would think out here seemingly in the middle of nowhere, you would have some privacy. Nope, "hey, u don't want um, but what about that lady on the bike?" I replied I was visiting from CA and his response, "don't they eat steak in CA?" :hehe :scratch

The next pix many of you have already seen...but hey, more is better!
The road in...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4302.1.jpg

Dean's driveway though better than it was, was small gravel deeply layered. Dean suggested that he ride in the Bandit. I gratefully accepted and drove in his jeep. He had just poured a new cement pad in front of the B&B and the Bandit was the first motorcycle to cross it. What an honor!

The MCB&B which will soon be green like Dean and Pam's home.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4261.1.jpg

Dean and Pam's home
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4259.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4262.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4263.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4264.1.jpg

I was included on the wall of visiting fame...now that was special! :2thumbsup
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4265.1.jpg

Pam spend time making the B&B perfect. Her paint touches and decorating were amazing.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4266.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4269.1.jpg

Dean's collection of horsepower!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4267.1.jpg

A tool for every occasion!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4270.1.jpg

The B&B up above the motorcycle barn a life of luxury!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4271.1.jpg

My room
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4273.1.jpg

Bunk room
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4274.1.jpg

The deck off the bunk room...wow.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4275.1.jpg

The off the grid power source. Dean's system is killer!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4276.1.jpg

Dean and Pam have worked on their place for 12 years now, and it is simply amazing. From a one room cabin to a full blow, off the grid home with and additional motorcycle barn, shop and guest house. They have delicious well water and a solar system the powers everything, lights, pumps, water heater, refrigeration, I mean everything! The bed and barn alone are huge, complete with ceiling fans, lighting, two motorcycle lifts, tools and an amazing collection of ambient motorcycle memorabilia. Dean a Beemer dude, once owned a dealership and now enjoys the fruits of his years of labor. His lovely wife Pam has painstakingly made paths across the yard raking and lining them with stones. Her influence is abundant in the ambiance throughout the home and barn. Her eclectic style and drawn together a perfect union of antique and modern furnishings and traditional and modern art. The place glows warmth hospitality.

Pam's beautifully lined rock paths
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4251.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4258.1.jpg

A couple of chairs for relaxing in the shade on the path and the creek below
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4256.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4257.1.jpg

My morning view
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4294.1.jpg

Relaxing on Dean's deck
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0066.1.jpg

Must have a Donna self-portrait
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0069.1.jpg

Dean and Pam
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4298.1.jpg

Max (don't let that cool laid back look fool you...)
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4300.1.jpg

Pam's famous pie....ummmmmm
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4292.1.jpg

It was obvious to me, that leaving the MCB&B was not going to be easy.

[demenshea]

I generally rise fairly early so that I may enjoy vibrant colors of daybreak and the morning birds. The air is crisp and clean and unlike any other time of day. I love sitting with my coffee staring into the distance and at the MCB&B the mornings were perfect!

Sadly, this was the morning I needed to leave. I got the bike packed, Dean rode it out to the parched and packed dirt and off I went, promising to return when able. What a dream to have discovered...thank you Frenchy!!

I decided early on that I wanted to ride 191 which I was told had been called the 666 but was changed due to the devil reference. It is now called the Devil's Highway or the Coronado Trail. It was perfect!

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4305.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4314.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4315.1.jpg

The odd thing about this gorgeous road was that it ended smack dab in the middle of a copper mine, apparently the largest in North America.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4319.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4320.1.jpg

I decided that mother nature was not happy as I entered the area the wind started up with horrible gusts and hot air. By the time I reached Phoenix, I was parched and HOT!! I didn't have my camelbak and was beating myself up for forgetting it. My head was pounding and the wind was spreading me all over the road. I got to Renee's home just in time. Gary arrived only an hour or so after me. We both were hot and spent.

The evening was spent with friends and we were rested and ready to go to the Grand Canyon. Gary surprised me with my camelbak in his luggage!! Woohoo!!! Saved! :woop

You can't take a bad picture of the Grand Canyon. It is simply gorgeous.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4323.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4324.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4329.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4331.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4342.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4339.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4345.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day6.jpg

This map, though keeping off the main highways was a serious pita. The local bikers were all out in hordes, big parade groups of Harleys and trykes. It was a bear to pass them, as they were certainly less than courteous to those of us that desired traveling faster than 45mph. I believe if i were to do this again, I would simply do a straight shot up 17 to Williams and then to the Grand Canyon. It was not all that scenic and the speed limits were killing both of us. So much so, that when in the park, after the ninetieth person stopped in front of us to snap a scenic shot we slipped around them on a dashed line but still got a ticket!! OUTRAGEOUS...damn it. We were trying so hard NOT to get any. The park ranger was condescending and lectured us. "Do you know what an elk is?" Without waiting for us to respond, he added, "it is a LARGE herbivore that will TAKE YOU OUT." Uh, ya, we know what an elk is and we were being careful, we simply wanted to pass the vehicle that kept stopping in front of us. Well, too bad...u win an award. I guess the parks need to generate some cash, but damn why on our silly little tourist watch?? Bastids!

From the Grand Canyon to Page and Antelope Canyon...I can't wait!

[1MPH]

Very very nice Donna.
As nice a ride tale as I've seen here at the Cafe'. Well done.
Great tale and pictures to match.
Thanks for taking the time to post.

[demenshea]

Very very nice Donna.
As nice a ride tale as I've seen here at the Cafe'. Well done.
Great tale and pictures to match.
Thanks for taking the time to post.

Thanks Jack...still working on photos. Hope to finish the report by this evening!

[demenshea]

Antelope Canyon is simply amazing. I have seen plenty of desert canyons, but nothing to compare to this. I must add, though, that the Navajo Tribe, though doing a fabulous job preserving the site, does not aptly prepare those wanting to see the canyon. It is steep, narrow, descending approximately 100 stairs, and they what goes down must come up. :)

There were some elderly people that had a heck of a time on this tour and those with claustrophobia would would be mindlessly screaming from time to time. Our tour guide a young man of 17 did jokingly describe a "heftier" person getting stuffed in one of the passages and needed assistance to escape. Phew, with that I held in my stomach!! :icon_redface:

Words can not describe this unbelievable canyon. Called a slot canyon, because it is formed by the wear of water rushing through rock, a slot canyon is significantly deeper than it is wide. There have been several flash floods that have helped further the development. In fact one such flood took the lives of eleven tourists in 1997. I believe my first question entering the canyon was regarding the current weather conditions...:GRIM2A::rofl:

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4357.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4379.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4409.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4411.1.jpg

Our guide
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4417.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4424.1.jpg

The canyon from above
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4431.1.jpg

The flora
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4432.1.jpg

Awesome!

[Deans BMW]

Donna, wow, fantastic. You are a serious photog, outstanding.

Pam and I really enjoyed your visit.

[Elsie Smith]

Donna, thanks for taking us along on your journey,
am really enjoying your pictures and nice sense of
humor! Keep it up!

[Donson]

Great trip,report,and photos! Thanks for letting Us look over Your shoulder. Tip,instead of leaving the oil cap off,leave the drain plug out-that way it goes all over the floor,instead of Your bike! At least,that's the way I do it....:icon_redface:.

[AirBear]

Thanks Donna - a well written report and great pics. The colours and shapes in the slot canyon are breath-taking. I'm enjoying exploring your blog, too.

[demenshea]

Donna, wow, fantastic. You are a serious photog, outstanding.

Pam and I really enjoyed your visit.

Thanks Dean...i luck out sometimes!!

You two are amazing hosts. I could wander about freely and still connect up for a glass of vino and GREAT conversation.

I'm ready to return! :webers:


thanks for taking us along on your journey

Elsie, thanks for joining me!!


Tip,instead of leaving the oil cap off,leave the drain plug out-that way it goes all over the floor,instead of Your bike! At least,that's the way I do it....

Hahahahahahahah....been there done that. I am chalking the all up and I HATE looking stupid, but I am getting used to it!! :)


I'm enjoying exploring your blog, too.

Thanks!!! I am so glad you are visiting it!!! woohoo!! Please feel free to comment on any thread!

[demenshea]

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day7.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010180.1.jpg

Page AZ to Cortez, CO and Mesa Verde didn't provide many miles but we did go through Monument Valley and some pretty awesome country.

Every pic you have seen of Monument Valley can't help but display the "real" thang. There is almost no way to get a bad pic, much like the Grand Canyon. I didn't even stop much, but when I did, I was in awe of the surroundings.

Here is an example: I mean, how much better could it get?? I was feeling like alien probing was next, after all how could I still be on earth??
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4443.1.jpg

Windmill and storage tank
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4445.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010235.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010242.1.jpg

Coffee was in order and we had found just the place.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4447.1.jpg

They had just closed but were gracious enough to allow us a couple of drinks. We were totally appreciative.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4448.1.jpg

Wagons and wildflowers
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4449.1.jpg

This structure was directly behind the coffee shop. Wow...cool, but still not as cool as Dean and Pam's!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4452.1.jpg

Mesa Verde, I just didn't do justice to photography wise. The park is huge and the ride in was a windy road that was a blast, even given the limited speed zones. Mesa Verde features numerous ruins of homes and villages built by the ancient Pueblo people known as the Anasazi. The Anasazi made this stone village their home in 1200 AD. As one wanders through the ancient dwellings you'd swear you can feel the energy of a lost people.

Pano of the valley from the Mesa
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4460.1.jpg

We were greeted at the visitor center by these very lovely ladies having fun at work. They promptly christened Gary a Jr. Park Ranger and gave him a badge and told him to assist any visitors that needed help, *wink wink*. We stamped my National Park Pass and went out to gear back up and ride to where the tour was organized.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4477.1.jpg

We got water ready for the walk down and met the group. We were a fairly small group with less than 30 people. The ranger gave his spiel as we descended into the ruins.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4480.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4489.1.jpg

Steep stairs, but at least this park warns of the steep assents, numerous stairs and sheer drop offs!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4502.1.jpg

[Ed K]

Dem... terrific pics and commentary!

Thanks very much for also posting the routes... gave me a few ideas for my upcoming trip. Much appreciated!

[demenshea]

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day8.jpg

From Cortez and Mesa Verde, we made our way north skirting the west edge of the Rockies. I can only imagine crossing the Rockies, that being a ride in the future. We stopped in Dolores, CO for coffee and encountered yet another restaurant that was about to close. They greeted us with eager enthusiasm, and set us up with strong coffee and pie. We were both content. They boast a B and B that caters to motorcyclists with private parking behind a fence. I do believe when we are next in CO, this would be a place to overnight. The pie was excellent...but not Pam's!

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010277.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4507.1.jpg

After amping up we headed toward Rico an old silver mining town. I found Rico to have a rich history. I mean how can a town of 5K people, 23 bars, 2 churches. 58 active mines and 11 brothels, be a bad place to hang out! :hehe I could only imagine it in its hay day!

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010290.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010293.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010301.1.jpg

Gary finds the history uhhh, well, something to read...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010304.1.jpg

As we reach the summit the vantages are amazing! :love
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010315.1.jpg

We simply had to do a self-portrait...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0365.1.jpg

uh...two
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0366.1.jpg

On to Telluride
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010316.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010319.1.jpg

We overnighted in Grand Junction, CO. It was a night away from home...in other words...this was a less than fantastic place. We tired doing priceline, but were disappointed in the lodging and the "great deal". Oh well, our favorite places on this trip have been the independent ones. :whistle

[demenshea]

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day9.jpg

We left Grand Junction in scattered clouds and strong winds and it was only 8:30 am. I had read about wind advisories on the web, but decided the elements were all part of the experience. Well...it was beautiful and we found ourselves back in the desert.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010343.1.jpg

The little town of Cisco had seen better days. In fact, I don't believe that I saw any clue to life in Cisco. It was a bit like Trona...:hehe
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010352.1.jpg

But farther on down the road was amazing...the back way that Mark (helmetdance) had recommended. I was dumbfounded by the total beauty of this amazing river fed canyon! :love

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010382.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010386.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4510.1.jpg

The road terminated in Moab and it was time for lunch!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010404.1.jpg

What great food and people and flowers...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010397.1.jpg

After a bite and some caffeine, we headed to Arches NP, yet another awesome National Park...wow, my country awes me!! :2thumbsup

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0433.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0506.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0463.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0485.1.jpg

Gary was having fun following me!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0496.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010411.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010414.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010431.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010433.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010434.1.jpg

Now this is a rock formation out of nature...:D :love :whistle
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010438.1.jpg

You may have guessed that I :love Arches NP
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010441.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010444.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010447.1.jpg

I truly believed Arches NP was going to be my favorite until I reached Capitol Reef.

[AirBear]

Wow. Spectacular landforms, nicely photographed. Thanks.

[Donson]

Great job,great narrative,I love that area,My favorite in the USA!

[demenshea]

Thanks everyone!!

This was my/our first trip to the SW and we indeed found it to be an amazing place to photograph. It was one amazing shot after another. Even now that I am home, I am still going through photos thinking that I must print up a couple to hang.

I should finish the trip today sometime and have the final pix up.
Thanks again!

[demenshea]

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day10.jpg

We left Green River with the wind still howling, but with our tanks full of gas, we felt ready to take it on.

Green River is a pretty sad sight of a town that was thriving at one time before the freeway. Now, it is run down, with many closed and boarded up businesses. The surviving ones are only there due to tourism, with the most visited being motels. In a short block there were all the biggies in the motel industry, Best Western, Comfort Inn, Holiday Inn Express, Ramada Inn and Motel 6. I was amazed to see most of them full!

We grabbed a bite in the morning and some coffee and got on the windy road, desiring space between us and Green River, UT.

The first 60 or so miles was nothing but open desert, high winds and not much else, but then after Hanksville, which did indeed have gas, the terrain still arid, developed scenically.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010454.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0519.1.jpg

Then Capitol Reef NP... This was hands down my favorite place on our tour.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010478.1.jpg

Capitol Reef National Park comprises 378 square miles of colorful canyons, ridges, buttes, and monoliths. About 75 miles of the long up-thrust called the Waterpocket Fold, extending like a rugged spine from Thousand Lake Plateau southward to Lake Powell, is preserved within the park boundary. Capitol Reef is the name of an especially rugged and spectacular part of the Waterpocket Fold near the Fremont River. This park, though a desert park, had water running and canyons of Juniper and orchards, in a Mormon developed area called Fruita. It was gorgeous.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010483.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010484.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0523.1.jpg

petroglyphs from the Fremont people, 9th century Native American Indians
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010487.1.jpg

Tent Caterpillars filled the trees and dropped all over, they were everywhere and actually kinda eerie.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0526.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0540.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010492.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0548.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0550.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0585.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010498.1.jpg

Later today, I should be able to finish up this post with Bryce and Zion and then home!!

[AirBear]

Thanks Donna - more stunning images. But I wish you guys would stop riding on the wrong side of the road like that.

[demenshea]

Thanks Donna - more stunning images. But I wish you guys would stop riding on the wrong side of the road like that.

Ok...no prob, but do you think the "others in charge" will understand! :025:

Also, here's one for you...do people walk on the sidewalks in the same fashion as drivers?? The reason I ask is that the parts were full of Europeans and the walking patterns were chaos! :jive:

[AirBear]

Ok...no prob, but do you think the "others in charge" will understand! :025:

Also, here's one for you...do people walk on the sidewalks in the same fashion as drivers?? The reason I ask is that the parts were full of Europeans and the walking patterns were chaos! :jive:

Pedestrians typically keep left on our footpaths, except for non-drivers and those of anarchistic persuasion.

[demenshea]

I know you guys are probably wondering when this report will end! Well, we are nearly there.

We knew we needed to do our best to include Bryce NP in this day so after absorbing the complete beauty of Capitol Reef we rode onward toward Bryce. Panguitch was our overnight spot with Harold's Place Cabins as our destination. It was a tough job, this trip, and we were doing our best to document it!

We did discover this beer in Utah. Loved the packaging.

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0564.1.jpg

Our final Capitol Reef photo
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010505.1.jpg

Once again we rose in elevation and as we were riding toward Escalante on Hwy 12. We found ourselves riding on an amazing ridge that skirted two deep canyons. We both shot a bunch of pix, but truly none of them do it the justice it deserves.

"Scenic Byway 12 has been designated a National Scenic Biway and an All-American Road by the Federal Highway Administration. All-American Roads have one-of-a-kind features so exceptional that they qualify as a destination unto themselves".

The 124-Mile route runs from Panguitch on US 89 traveling eastward through Bryce Canyon, the Dixie National Forest, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, over Boulder Mountain, and ends at the Scenic Biway 24 west of Capitor Reef NP. It boasts of scenery, culture, archeology and recreational opportunities. We ran this road in the opposite direction but it was no less impressive!

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0570.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0572.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010531.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0576.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0578.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010538.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010541.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010555.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010558.1.jpg

Then into Bryce...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0601.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0608.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/IMG_0617.1.jpg

[demenshea]

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010574.1.jpg

My personal favorite photo...the most photographed tree in the park, I imagine one that looks like it is about to jump!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010577.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010578.1.jpg

Red Canyon on our way to Harold's Place Inn and Cabins as we move to dusk.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010584.1.jpg

The Cabin was as described by Kharon and Holly. PERFECT!
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010586.1.jpg

We were thrilled with our little quarters. The interior was all knotty pine and the bed and pillows comfortable.
We showered and went to dinner at the restaurant that boasted of "home cookin'" and it was amazing!! I had fresh trout with pecan/pomegranate sauce with steamed veges and Gary had pork chops. There was fresh pie for dessert. uummmm Somehow I made it home not having gained an ounce...amazing.

Loved this vantage
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4511.1.jpg

The restaurant (with hummingbird feeders outside the windows full of hummingbirds, whoa, i had never seen so many!)
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4513.1.jpg

The Inn (with Wifi)
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4514.1.jpg

Our day's route
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day11.jpg

We were up early, got packed up and headed for Zion. Gary was nearing the cord on his rear tire so we knew that we also had to get to St. George to buy a new rear tire. We had a full day ahead of us.

As we neared Zion...
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4515.1.jpg

We went through two tunnels. One was quite long, possibly 3/4 of a mile. I find tunnels disorienting so for me this was a huge deal! I was sooooo ready to see the daylight when it finally showed up. The road was under construction as well, so when we reached the visitor center and boarded the buses into the park, it was welcomed. All but the moment before boarding the bus where I left my clip-on sunglasses in the bathroom...Figures.:scratch
I believed someone would turn them in, but no such luck. I was glad I had another pair of glasses with clip-ons to use. I have learned since glasses are imperative, that I always carry a spare pair. phew...

Wildflowers of Zion
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4517.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4518.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4520.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4526.1.jpg

[demenshea]

More Zion
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010587.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010589.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4524.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4529.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/100_4531.1.jpg

After a short tour, we realized we needed to haul bottom to get to St. George for the tire before closing time. The rest of the journey is a bit of a blur, but we did make it by 4ish and got the tire squared away then after much deliberation, as we were supposed to head to Panaca and connect with Randal and his wife, but a call to my dad has us heading back to the Yerington area. We overnighted in Las Vegas, though neither of us love it.:whistle

We rose to a lovely morning and made our way to Beatty, then after a rendezvous we decided that Gary needed to experience NV 266 and CA168. It's funny, but the twistiest road out of all our mileage was close to home. Hwy 168 is a personal favorite and one that the Pashnit girly riders will be riding.

266 in Fishlake Valley
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010614.1.jpg

The start of 168 right before the 20 miles of delightful twisties of which i really go no photos having such a GREAT time riding.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010617.1.jpg

http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/P1010619.1.jpg

We stopped in Bishop for lunch and went to our favorite Deli, Eric Schat's. YUM!! We gasses up in Bridgeport and then parted ways, which is typical of us! Gary needed to get home and I needed to get to Yerington. I would overnight there then go to Carson City, then head home.

My final route, where Gary went over Monitor Pass to 88 to 89 and down Hay 50.
http://www.demenshea.com/moto/2009/050009_western_tour/day12donna.jpg

My dad ended up not being home...he had gone to Carson as well, so I simply kept going onward to Carson City. Not knowing where he was, I stayed with my high school and moto-pal Mike and his lovely wife. We had a great visit and then I made for home...about 19 days after my departure.

It felt GREAT to get home, but I am already planning the next outing to central OR, after all Gary has never been there! :D

FIN of the GREAT SW TOUR!!

[Arby]

dement

Thanks for a great tour. I'm a east coast guy, but your pictorial and ride report have me thinking about another western moto tour. Great stuff!!, And a lot of work and effort on your part. Thank you for that, too.

Do you remember the tunnel in Zion, on the road leading down towards the North Rim? Judy and I were on our Buell heading south when we entered that tunnel and discovered that the headlight on the bike was burned out. It was pitch black in there. We were lucky not to crash!!

Glad you made it home safe & sound, looking forward to more of your posts.

RB

[Dirty Doug]

Great ride report. For someone sitting home on the mend it helps to live through others post. I lived in Colorado many moons ago and forgot what a wonderful place the west was to ride. Gotta' get back soon.

Thanks,

Dirty Doug

[Ed K]

Great report Dem... I am currently deciding betw a trip heading north to the Tetons, or south toward Escalante. Your insightful posts are very helpful.

Also picked-up a few tips in Nor Cal territory roads, that I have not seen yet too!

Thanks!

[AirBear]

More tasty roads and fabulous vistas. Thanks for the peek at your bit of the world. It's a hell of a planet we live on, eh? Looking forward to your next sojourn.

[Sir Limpsalot]

Thanks very much for taking the time to post all that, it must've taken ages. That's the "America" that we Euros dream of visiting and I just had a great tour from the comfort of my chair. Cool.

Cheers,
Si.

[demenshea]

Do you remember the tunnel in Zion, on the road leading down towards the North Rim? Judy and I were on our Buell heading south when we entered that tunnel and discovered that the headlight on the bike was burned out. It was pitch black in there. We were lucky not to crash!!


AWWK....do I?? I sort of suffer tunnel vertigo and it never ceases to freak me out a bit. That tunnel, the second one of the day was nearly 3/4 of a mile long and way weird so I can't even imagine riding it without a headlight! Glad you made it!! :webers:


For someone sitting home on the mend it helps to live through others post.

Thanks Doug! I am glad you are on the mend!!


I am currently deciding betw a trip heading north to the Tetons, or south toward Escalante. Your insightful posts are very helpful.

Also picked-up a few tips in Nor Cal territory roads, that I have not seen yet too!

Ed, I believe you can't go wrong with either! Both are absolutely amazing. I was in the Tetons two years ago and was amazed at the beauty especially coupled with Yellowstone. It was my first really LONG solo trip and I encountered a bit of everything (no loss of oil plus though, that was classic) When you want to ride NorCal, let me know. That is an area close to my heart and abode!!


It's a hell of a planet we live on, eh?

Ain't that the truth!


hat's the "America" that we Euros dream of visiting and I just had a great tour from the comfort of my chair.

Thanks Si, I was amazing just how many Euros were visiting the parks. The time is right for Euro travel to America with the exchange being so favorable to those from across the pond!

Gary loves language and had fun attempting to talk to everyone whether French, Italian, Spanish, German or Dutch. They too all enjoy his attempt. :eusa_clap:

Thanks everyone!!! I can't wait for our next trip. I believe we will be Oregon bound mid June, unless one of us actually gets a job!! :pot:

[frenchy750]

Donna,

Wow! Fantastic report, fantastic ride and fantastic pictures!! What a great time you must've had.

The only downside? Those were the exact places I WAS going to ride through next week on my way back to Cali... no sense in duplicating a ride report though...

Ah well... time to start looking at the maps again!

[demenshea]

The only downside? Those were the exact places I WAS going to ride through next week on my way back to Cali... no sense in duplicating a ride report though...

Ah well... time to start looking at the maps again!

Come on Frenchy...it would be from a masculine perspective...there's got to be a difference!! I only shot the Polygamy Porter, I didn't "experience" it...hahahahha

Seriously, there is soooo much to see on all those areas, I can't imagine a duplicate report no matter what!!

Have a great time, we certainly did!

[Tassie Devil]

Wonderful report Donna,
You have an excellent writing style and an eye for a great pic.
I can only wonder how beautiful your shots would be in full size.....

Keep up the good work... I feel like I'm riding along with you..

Cheers,

JQ.

[SV Andy]

Great report Donna, loved it, i leave Sunday for a short trip north can't wait.

Thanks Andy.

[demenshea]

Wonderful report Donna,
You have an excellent writing style and an eye for a great pic.
I can only wonder how beautiful your shots would be in full size.....

Keep up the good work... I feel like I'm riding along with you..

Cheers,

JQ.

Thanks JQ...getting ready to head to OR next week. Will report back upon return!


i leave Sunday for a short trip north can't wait

So, where did you go Andy?? Some of the short rides can be the best!

[SV Andy]

A bit late i know sorry been busy,just back from Scotland will post later. Andy.