Vintage bike storage

[vintagecycle]

Here's a question for the vintage bike veterans here. What is the best way to long term store a bike? Gas tank full, with stabler, or empty with some sort of coating? What about oil crankcase and/or tranny? What about cooling system if applicable.

Thanks,
Dan

[DJ Down Under]

What is the best way to long term store a bike?
How long?...approx.

DJ

[vintagecycle]

several years, at least...

[Dallara]

Hey, Vintagecycle...

Here's how I used to store mine:

If for a year or more...

1.) Tank full, and I mean to the very brim, and fuel laced with a good stabilizer. Capacity checked bi-monthly to top it off with fuel so there is no air in the tank... Air is where rust comes from primarily. If the bike has carbs make sure to drain them completely of any fuel, period

2.) Normal oil capacity, with some fogging oil also sprayed into the plugs holes and crankcase and/or gearbox breathers.

3.) Chain well lubed (if it has one).

4.) Both wheels blocked up off the ground and tires inflated to normal pressures, and checked every four to six months.

5.) Any exposed metal surfaces (shock shafts, fork tubes, alloy cases, etc.) sprayed down with a good multi-purpose lube (I like Amsoil's).

6.) Good coat of wax on all painted surfaces, and left there without being buffed off after it dries. You buff it off when you take the bike out of storage.

7.) Remove the battery, and keep it fresh off the bike with regular chargings.

8.) All rubber and plastic surfaces well rubbed down with good preservation product (Armor-All, Formula 2000, etc.) Same with the seat.

9.) Nice, Breathable and vented cover. The cover is keep dust off only. Waterproof, non-porous covers promote condensation under the cover and that causes corrosion. Of course, Storing them in a temperature enclosed environment is even better.

10.) When you pull it out of storage drain the fuel, oil, etc. and replace with fresh... Wipe all the wax residue off and buff... Wipe down all the plastic, etc. surfaces (except the seat, replace the fully charged battery, and fire it up.

For shorter durations I still do everything the same except I leave the battery in 'em if there is provision for charging it while on the bike.

I'm sure others will have some different viewpoints, but these are the methods I have used for decades, and they have never let me down.

Hope this helps!

Allan (Dallara)

[vintagecycle]

Thanks Allan. That definitely helps. I've got some storage work to do on my RZ350, I've got the fuel tank full with stabilizer, but never drained the carbs:104: I'll re-apply some wax too...and uh the fog spray too....
I need to make a list and get it done over the weekend.

Dan

[Bones]

Allan,
For bikes with carbs AND petcocks (like in the good old days), how do you feel about putting in stabilizer, topping off the tank, closing the petcock and running the bike until it cuts out? Would that have the carbs empty enough and dry enough? Just curious.


Jeff

[Dallara]

Well, Bones...

Running the carb out of fuel might be fine for storage of a month or three - maybe six depending on the climate, temperature, humidity, etc....

But if you are talking about any more than that I would make the effort and drain 'em. Even if you run one to starvation there will still be some residual fuel left in the carbs below the level of the jets, and most likely it will die even with the main jet still immersed due to the lack of fuel pressure. Remember that in a carbuerated bike what pushes the fuel up the jet stack is ambient air pressure on top of the fuel column and it's specific gravity in the float bowl. Once this fuel column drops low enough ther is no longer sufficient pressure to lift it to the low pressure area in the carb throat... The engine sputters and dies, yet their is still fuel around the main jet.

Granted, main jets are sufficiently sized as to rarely clog from gummy residuals in the fuel after the volatiles evaporate off. Most times it is the pilot jets with their tiny orifices that clog up. Still, gummy residue lining the sides of the main jet orifice could conceivably drop teh effective main jet size an entire size or two, resulting in a lean condition when you start the bike back up.

To me it's not worth the risk the few extra minutes with some tools and rag might avoid.

Besides, who wants any chalky, or green, or gummy residue in theri carbs at all???

Hope this helps!

Allan (Dallara)

[vintagecycle]

How about the cooling system? Should I put fresh coolant in before storage or drain it?

[mnnden]

I have several engines that set for long periods of time, 2years or sometimes more, I have had pretty good luck draining the gas, running the engine until it dies out, at the very end I spray "fogging Oil" into the carbs, and coat the inside of the fuel tank with fogging oil, and last but not least, i pull the plugs and shoot fogging oil down the sleave, turn the motor over a time or two and thats it. dosn't take very long, maybe i have just been lucky, but have had no problems. For short term (over the winter) I fill the tank, with treated fuel, run it a short bit and thats it, I do like to fog the cylinders though, Den

[TorqueMonsterMT-01]

I'm with Allan on the carb care. In fact, I go as far as to disassemble the entire float mechanism, butterfly, jets, choke and prime bladder; clean the whole thing with carb cleaner and store these parts separately in a dry indoor storage area until its time to put it all back together again. You can find plastic caps that fit most intakes at your local hardware store. Treat your rubber or plastic intake tubes with great care and lube the clamps.

Once I'm ready to put an engine back in service, I drain and clean the tank, thoroughly clean and lube the petcock, reassemble the carbs and go.

There is no bigger pain in the ass than sticky floats, butterflies and choke components when you are trying to put a perfectly good motor back on the road or track. The way I figure it is that tuning is a lot easier if you eliminate these tedious things up front.

I'm not sure about the RZ's ignition, but I take similar approaches to points, condensors, plugs and wires. You are going to be screwing with these things either way, you might as well screw with clean parts that you know are in proper working order. The best defense is a good offense.

By the way, don't forget to clean and dry your exhaust system too. If you are not storing the bike in a controlled temperature, make sure and plug the pipe. A decomposing bird smells horrible once you start cooking it. Of course you can gain a competitive advantage if you can make the whole starting grid puke before the gate drops.

[Dallara]

Yep, what TorqueMonster said...

Though I have never had to be that finicky with the carbs. As for point ignitions, just pull the cover and give 'em a good dousing with LPS TKV or LPS 1 (both are non-conductive and won't effect spark, and we used ot use 'em to waterproof dirt bike electrics before heavy rain races) and button the cover back up. You can find LPS at any good electrical components store (Like Altex in Texas). LPS also works good to spray up inside the plug boots and around the coils, etc. to prevent corrosion.

As for the radiators and coolant system... Again, depends on how long you are storing it. The longer you plan to store it the greater the percentage of coolant to water you want (and I prefer propylene glycol coolants). In my water-cooled engines I run very, very little anti-freeze/coolant (I ran 100% deionized water with a bit or Redline Water Wetter in race bikes)... About 20 to 30% propylene glycol with the rest distilled water with a bit of Redline Water Wetter. It doesn't freeze down here much, and you mostly need the coolant for water pump lubrication and seal health along with corrosion protection. If you have an aluminum radiator (and chances, you do) and you are going to store the bike for a year or more then I would fill the entire system with anti-freeze/coolant. Just make sure you drain and flush this *ALL* out before ever restarting the engine when you put the bike back online.

Hope this helps!

Allan (Dallara)

[vintagecycle]

You guys are great! Thanks a bunch!