Five Charlie Whiskey Zulu

[BobFV1]

...that's the number of my new AZ license plate on my GS. It had been "LZLNG". LZLNG is short for "Lazy Lightning", the name of my favorite Grateful Dead song and the nickname of my 04 RT - which I traded n on my GS.

The RT was Lazy Lightning. When I rode it skillfully, it would go like the wind, despite being a bit down on horsepower. Most of the time it was a very capable road bike - I loved that bike.

So when I put the "LZLNG" plate on the GS< with it's peppy engine and souped-up mods, I thought it didn't look right, and I threw myself on the mercy or the state of Arizona to send me a new plate. They did, and I mounted it on the bike today. 5CWZ - Five Charley Whiskey Zulu.

So that is the name or the trip on which I will embark in the next 12 hours or so. Tomorrow I will head to Durango, Colorado. Absolutely no idea which route I will take - could go up close to the Grand Canyon and across monument valley, or could go straight East to 191, and up through some of the most spectacular scenery anywhere, or I could head up to Dean-O's for morning coffee, then over into New Mexico and through the Four Corners - the Anasazi Way.

Well, I will meander up to Durango, find a hotel, rest for a while, then pick my sweet wife up at the airport in the evening. Saturday morning we will go North - to Gunnison, Crested Butte, over the unpaved Keebler Pass - probably into Glenwood Springs or Leadville for the night. hen Sunday up over Independence Pass and then down to Denver, where in the evening I drop my sweet wife at the airport and then head to Limon, Colorado to RON.

My plan is to awaken on Monday morning in Limon, have the hotel clerk sign my paperwork, and then run like hell for DC - making it in 36 hours or less and qualifying for a "Bunburner" award from the Iron Butt Association. We shall see. My bike is shorn with new Tourances, just had the 6K service (1K past the prescribed interval) - and I have completed a rewiring of the bike's electrical system for my accessories. All systems go!

Oh - I bought a 1GB storage card for my digital camera - there will be a lot of pix.

Catch you on down the road - and be on the lookout for Five Charlie Whiskey Zulu!

[bmwdave52]

Bob, are you coming to the Unrally?

[BobFV1]

Bob, are you coming to the Unrally?

Dave -

I will actually be in Gunnison this weekend having my own un-un-un-rally. Actually, the BMWST board management, which sets up the unrally, actually banned me from their site earlier this year. They didn't actually ban me, but the mods were on me for just about every post, and the owner "suggested" I post elsewhere before he banned me. Blah, blah, blah. I found the experience level and motorcycle savvy of that croud to be pretty weak anyway. - Long story short, I am not going to the Un.

I will try to stop by the ADV West rally in Buena Vista, and have plans to ride to the MOA national in Vermont in late July!

Off on my trip now.... More from the road.....

[GPM]

Have a safe and fun trip Bob. Hope the Colorado weather treats you and your lovely wife well.

Find some worthy roads to test those new tires. I'm going to need some soon and I want to hear your impression of the Tourances.

[jamming]

Bob, have fun be cool, and I'd go to the rally just to mess with them:)

See ya when you get back.

Roger

[AZBMWRIDER]

Bob, have a great time in Colorado.

If you get a chance, stop over at the Hickory House (Aspen, CO) for Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner.

I like to stop in for breakfast...Scrambled eggs with cheese, baby back ribs, and a hot cup of coffee.....:041:

"Great way to start a day of ridding"

Hickory House Aspen
730 West Main Street
Aspen, CO 81611
Phone: 970-925-2313
http://www.hickoryhouseribs.com/aspenlocation.html

http://www.hickoryhouseribs.com/Images/ribs%20photo%20for%20front%20pagewith%20stroke%20c opy.jpg
http://www.hickoryhouseribs.com/Images/Logo.gif

[BobFV1]

It's 2130 MDT on Friday, June 9, and I am sitting in the Super 8 in Durango, Colorado, all by myself - just me and my laptop. How did I end up in this unanticipated predicament? Let's go back to this morning....

Woke up and finished packing the bike, had a little coffee with my sweet wife Delia and off we went, she went to her day job, teaching at eh University, and I mounted my bike and headed out for Durango, Colorado:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491321-M.jpg

It was hot in the Phoenix area, I headed East immediately, with no clear idea of what my route would be. My only requirement was to get to Durango, Colorado, a little over 500 miles away, in time to pick up my wife from the airport at 2000 local. She would fly up via Denver in the afternoon, after teaching.

I got to Globe, AZ, and decided to turn up the Salt River canyon to carve up some twisty stuff with my new Tourances - wanted to get a feel for how planted they felt before running 2up through the rockies all weekend.

Here I am at the bottom of the Salt River Canyon about 2 hours after leaving home:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491340-M.jpg

You can see how loaded down the bike is. My wife's Arai is in the bag on the pax seat. The Givi is also on as a backrest for the wife, and it is packed with her leathers and clothes/toiletries for the weekend.

Heading North hard out of the Salt River Canyon the rubber felt good, but the suspension is a bit hinkey - pretty light in the front - a tar snake gave me a little more motion in the front than it should have. I realized that I did not crank any bias into the rear shock despite being loaded down, so tomorrow I will crank it up first, see if this solves the problem before adjusting the front shock spring at all.

Well - I got to Show Low and noticed that a stiff breeze had picked up. Flags there were completely windblown, I would say we had a wind out of the south at about 24 gusting to 35. Given my experience of a couple of weeks ago, I decided to head North to Holbrook out of Show Low. The wind shifted around a bit and I had a few heavy gusts on the way up to Holbrook. I had to make an obligatory photo stop at the famous old Route 66 landmark in Holbrook called the "Wigwam Motel":

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491348-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491352-M.jpg

Headed West on I-40 a little ways and had some manageable but strong tail winds, which I knew would cause havoc whenever I turned North. SO I elected to turn North on route 191 in Arizona because that route is sheltered by the mountains to the West a bit.

There were stiff but manageable winds headed North. Stopped in the little, predominantly native-American town of Chinle for a sandwich, and then pressed on to the North. As I had hoped, I got far enough North that the winds started to die down. The GS is downright scary in heavy crosswinds - does not handle them well.

I stopped a few places over the next 60 miles or so, right up and through eh "Four Corners" - the only square, geographic juxtaposition of four US states - and on to the Colorado border. Here are a few snaps from that majestic area:


http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491363-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491408-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491421-M.jpg

Pretty uneventful after that - a late afternoon ride across Southwestern Colorado up to the little town of Cortez

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491372-M.jpg

In Cortez, I found myself on a parade route. They were celebrating the opening of their rodeo with a parade lead by the fire department. I was the last one they let through - as I went down main street, the police closed each intersection behind me. The whole town was out in the warm, late afternoon sun and there I was, riding down main street on my big BMW - so I did what any of us would have done - I started waving at everybody, and everybody started waving back! That was a lot of fun!

Durango is just 45 minutes East of Cortez, through the Mancos Valley. Since I had never been to the airport here before I went down and scoped it out - arriving around 1800 local, about 2 hours before the scheduled arrival of my wife. Got a cool shot next to a "borate bomber" - a US Forest Service firefighting plane:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491472-M.jpg

Well - I checked in to the Super 8 here and got a call from Delia at the Denver airport - flight canceled, then un-canceled, then delayed. Apparently it has departed DEN, and will arrive here a little before 2300 local time.

So, I am off in a few minutes to the airport to pick up Delia. I don't particularly like riding after dark, but it is a beautiful evening and the PIAA's are working well, plus it's only a 10 mile run form the hotel here out to the airport - and tomorrow we have the whole day to play up here in the rocky mountains!

Well, I hope you all have a good weekend. Delia and I will take lots of pics - might even be able to photograph each other! Here is one more great pic of the bike to leave you with. Ride safe!

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74491443-L.jpg

[BobFV1]

More musings -

Mike - THANKS! for the tip on the restaurant in Aspen - we may try to arrange our sked to be there Sunday AM!

I have changed the name of my bike to "Five Charlie". Don't know why - it just seems right.

[DarthRider]

Bobbers -
Great pics...great ride(s)!
I'd like to be wing-man on that trip...hell I'd like to be a wing-man on any long road trip right now...it's been way to long since the last 1+ week ride.
Stay safe.

[jamming]

Great Pics!
Dude, hope you get the Rib place for a bite! :037:

Roger

[socalrob]

Ribs and eggs. Hadn't thought about that before, now I must try.

Bob,

5 Charlie is look'n good. Nice setup.
Especially like the picture at the airport, & the one with the sun glinting in the mirror.

Did you call to get a Ute escort?

[BobFV1]

Well, not really day 2, actually, I need to fill you in on the end of day 1! Delia finally got out of Denver and landed at Durango airport at 2300 local on Friday night. I rode the 15 miles from the Durango Super 8 and was there to pick her up.

Delia is the greatest - if you don't believe me, just ask anybody who has met her. Dean-O is in that category. Anyway, it sure was good to see her. I met her at the airport with her Arai helmet and white Fieldsheer leather jacket - she dawned her gear and we rode to the hotel. Man, am I glad I installed the PIAA 510's - worked great, but I was hoping all the way that Bambi wouldn't appear from nowhere!

Okay, so, Saturday morning, Day 2 of the trip, started in Durango, Colorado. We loaded up the bike and headed North on 550 through the idyllic little town of Silverton and on to Ouray. In Ouray, we stopped at a little bakery and had coffee and croissants:

Delia took a snap of me across the street from the little coffee house in Ouray:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859119-M.jpg

From Ouray we headed North to Delta. We intended to follow a route given to me by Mike, the machinist at Al Jesse's shop in Phoenix. Here we are at a quick stop at a donut house in Delta - Delia is checking in with out daughter:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859133-M.jpg


From Delta we headed East to Hotchkiss, then South to Crawford along the incredibly beautiful "West Elk Loop" to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River. We stopped at the Dam on the Morrow Point Reservoir, right before Highway 92 goes over the top of the Dam. It was a nice Dam view, and a gentleman snapped a picture of Delia and me:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859145-M.jpg

We rode on in to Gunnison and Delia reminded me it was about lunch time (I usually don't need any reminding!). As we looked around for a place to eat, we saw a beautiful little race replica Duc pulling up to an organic sandwich shop called "Firebrand" - we followed his lead and went in for a sandwich and some talk. The Duc rider lived in Crested Butte. His bike is a 1990 750 Sport, painted up in some race-inspired colors. It was a cool little bike, and hats off to its owner for keeping the carbs working well in the rarefied air up at Crested Butte.

Anyway, I asked him about some good Dual Sport riding and he said that if we went North to Almont, about half way to Crested Butte, we could catch a County Road, which is paved up to Taylor Lake, then follow it around the South side of the lake and catch a County-maintained dirt road all the way up to Cottonwood Pass, one of the highest passes in Colorado. From Cottonwood Pass we could take a paved road down the other side through some spectacular twisties to the town of Buena Vista.

Well, I wanted to go to Buena Vista to preview the site of the ADVRIDER West bash, and I wanted to do some dual sporting, so off we went! Here is a shot in front of the restaurant in Gunnison with the Duc"

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859169-M.jpg

Taylor Lake, or rather Taylor Park Reservoir, is in a remote part of the high mountains just below Cottonwood Pass on the West side of the Continental Divide, and it is spectacular:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859177-M.jpg

The dirt road from Taylor Lake up to Cottonwood Pass, the Western approach to the pass, was in pretty good shape - about 15 miles of mostly hard-packed dirt with some loose stuff. The squirreliest part was tourists in rent-a-jeeps hogging the road coming down in the opposite direction. Here are shots up and down the road:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859204-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859232-M.jpg

We finally made it to the top. Right below the summit of Cottonwood Pass there were incredible views of Taylor Lake, but there was a lot of snow on the ground and the track was soggy, so I couldn't stop and take any shots. We did stop at the summit and here are a couple of shots:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859249-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859269-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859286-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859278-M.jpg

Well - that takes me about half way through the day on Saturday - to the top of Cottonwood Pass - I'll pick up on the trip down the hill shortly....

[BobFV1]

So we departed Cottonwood Pass, down the Atlantic side of the Continental Divide. The twisties were fun, Delia was a great passenger as always. The Tourances felt firmly planted. Not sure about the suspension on the GS - still need to tweak it a bit.

Well, we didn't stop in Buena Vista, we just pressed on to Leadville. It was getting a bit late in the afternoon, the winds were up a bit but quite manageable.

We toyed with staying in Leadville. I saw this great looking Brewpub and the idea of spending the night seriously appealed to me:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859334-M.jpg

Some more of these street scenes in Leadville might help get across why we decided to press on to Aspen - Leadville is kind of beat:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859351-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859364-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859374-M.jpg

So, from Leadville to Aspen we went - it was already after 1700, and we knew we would have to cross Independence Pass, but WTF? We went for it - zoom, through Twin Lakes in the beautiful late afternoon light, and up the pass. I was carving it pretty hard. I tried not to look down, it was a long way over the edge. We stopped at the 12k+ foot summit:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859424-M.jpg

It was cold up there, I was having a bit of a hard time catching my breath, and it was getting late. We got on the bike and tore ass down to Aspen - the first mile or so had patches of ice on the road, which was not as bad as some of the loose bits on the ride up the dirt road to Cottonwood earlier.

Boy, were we glad we went to Aspen. What a civilized place. We checked in to the quaint old Tyrolean Lodge at Main and First - got a great big first floor suite and kicked back:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859465-M.jpg

And guess what - the Tyrolean Lodge is a quick couple of blocks walk to the Hickory House, Mike's GREAT recommendation for the best ribs in Colorado. We ordered up two full racks (quote of the day from Delia "Can I ask her how big her rack is?") and a bottle of Napa Valley Merlot. The Merlot (2003 Coyote Creek) was pedestrian, but the ribs were absolutely fantastic! Thanks Mike!!!

Delia is happy to be off the bike and waiting for ribs:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859519-M.jpg

So am I!!!

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859529-M.jpg

Well - that was our day. 400 miles through the Colorado Rockies, two crossings of the Continental Divide, and one dual sport ascent of the divide from the West. We walked off our ribs in the quaint Aspen evening, and as we returned to the little Tyrolean Inn, we got a great shot of the hotel in the last light of day. Night all....

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74859567-M.jpg

[DarthRider]

Cool Bob!
I rode all those same places on the 50R last year when we vacationed at a bud's house in Gunnison. Beautiful country!
I like Delia...

[BobFV1]

Well -

I'm alone in the Super 8 next to I-70 in Limon Colorado, with a cell of intense thunderstorms passing overhead. It seems like a thousand years since this morning, in Aspen with my sweet wife Delia.

We slept in past 0800 and headed downtown into Aspen for some espresso and pastries:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74895803-M.jpg

We headed up the road to Glenwood Springs - stopped at the Hot Springs but we had a date in Boulder, so we didn't stay for a dip:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74898389-M.jpg

Headed East on I-70 for our third crossing of the Continental Divide in two days, this time the Vail Pass on I-70, through a couple of real long tunnels, down to the little village of Georgetown on the Eastern side of the divide:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74898733-M.jpg

We pressed on East, heading North on highway 6 through the beautiful Clear Creek Canyon to Boulder, Colorado. Boulder is a great little college town but we went there to see the Boulder Dushanbe Chaikhona

http://www.boulderteahouse.com/

It's a long story, but Delia and I both have ties to Dushanbe. Dushanbe is a bastardized version of the Farsi word for Monday, and it is what the capital of Tajikistan was named by the Soviets because it had a famous Monday market. I worked there a bit in the mid-1990's while I was posted to Tashkent, Uzbekistan. There was a civil war there at the time, and it was occupied by Russian troops. I have a lot of Dushanbe stories, many of which are not pleasant. Anyway, Delia actually has some Tajik blood running through her veins, but she is Uzbek by birth, and was brought up in a Soviet diplomatic family - long story.

Anyway, Boulder Colorado is the sister city of Dushanbe, and it has what I imagine is one of the few, if not the only authentic Tajik teahouses outside of Central Asia. We had a lovely late afternoon tea there:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74898881-M.jpg

There are grape arbors and running water outside, very typical of Chaikhonas (teahouses) in Central Asia:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74899009-M.jpg

Here is Delia sitting in front of one of the handmade traditional Tajikdesign sculptures. Inside were many other Tajik artifacts - almost like a museum...

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74899179-M.jpg

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74899347-M.jpg

You can see in the last photo that is is starting to cloud up. I had to get Delia to Denver International, so we hopped on the bike and headed to the airport. The rain started as we approached the airport, then the winds kicked up - gusts to 60 MPH as we approached the terminal were blowing us all over Pena Ave - we finally made it and I dropped Delia off - she was worried about me....

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/74899506-M.jpg

It was dodgy, but I made a hard run East on I70 with the wind blowing the bike all over the road and the storms following me. Checked in to the Super 8 here about an hour before an intense line of storms hit. Delia was delayed getting out of DEN but she made it home safe and sound.

Well, tomorrow I head East. I am going to try and do a documented "Bunburner" - 1500 miles in 36 hours. Plan to leave about 0700 local tomorrow and that gives me until 2100 local in DC on Tuesday evening to arrive. Weather permitting, I should be able to make it. Have to scare up a witness for my departure tomorrow AM.

Won't be many photos of the Bunburner, but I will keep you advised on my progress. Wish me luck!

[Sir Limpsalot]

Can't begin to tell you how envious I am of that trip. Simply wonderful scenery, thanks for taking the time to share it.
Si.

[fganger]

Bob,

It looks like a great trip with your beautiful wife. Sort of a shame she was not able to be with you the whole distance. Of course, I can't really imagine the sort of fun it must be for a passenger on a "Bun Burner.":037:

I also spent a bit of time in Tashkent. I was there in 1973, just doing a little work. Nice people, pretty area. :)

Ride on - Frank

[Deans BMW]

Delia is in fact a fantastic person. Someday Bob, I hope that you get a chance to wright about yours and Delia's meeting and also what a fantastic daughter you all have. I was totally impressed, you have some great stories that need to be told.

Great ride report.

[Est51]

Fantastic ride report Bob. Thanks a lot for taking the time to share it.

Cheers, Steve

[BobFV1]

Bob,

It looks like a great trip with beautiful wife. Sort of a shame she was not able to be with you the whole distance. Of course, I can't really imagine the sort of fun it must be for a passenger on a "Bun Burner.":037:

I also spent a bit of time in Tashkent. I was there in 1973, just doing a little work. Nice people, pretty area. :)

Ride on - Frank

Frank -

Delia and I have an "understanding" - she will fly to a destination and ride around with me, but she is too active to sit on the back for the trip "to/from" - it works for us. Last year she flew to wine country and we met up, this year Colorado.

Darth - I would be honored to have you as my wingman, any time;

Dean-O - thanks for the kind words about the girls. I really lucked out. I will write our story in the moto-lit section one of these days.

Bunburner update: Departed Limon, Colorado about 15 hours ago. I covered 860 miles before stopping here in Effingham, Illinois for the night. I am on a slow dial-up. but when I get home I actually have some photos from today! Easy ride of 750 miles or so tomorrow in to DC, with arrival no later than 2000 local in order to complete my "Bunburner". Had it all today - wind, rain, lighting, trucks. Ah, the open road!

[Bones]

Great report with great pics. This will make my soon to be posted ride report "9 States in 7 days" appear pretty Mickey Mouse. Thanks for sharing. Great report.

Jeff

[BobFV1]

Mission complete - Five Charlie rolled in to McLean, Virginia this afternoon, 35 hours after departing Limon, Colorado, just East of Denver, completing a "Bumburner 1500", or 1500 miles in less than 36 hours. I will submit the paperwork to IBA tomorrow and see if I can get it certified.

That was a tough trip. Considering that in the three days preceding, I did 1000 miles in and around the Colorado rockies, and I did the Bunburner alone, I am one dragging-ass piece of meat right about now. I mean really draggin-ass. I don't want to ride a motorcycle ever again. Not until at least tomorrow.

Got to go sit on an ice bag now - trip report on the Bunburner to follow soon....

[BobFV1]

Well -

Not too many opportunites to take photos on a Bunburner. One is at the beginning, here at a travel center in Limon, Colorado, just East of Denver:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/75567721-S.jpg

Stopped oputside of Abilene, Kansas, to take a piss and found myself right in front of this sign:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/75567742-M.jpg

Motel 6 in Effingham, Illinois, gave me the handicapped room for night rest - easy to watch my bike from that room:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/75567753-S.jpg

Finished with just a little over an hour to spare:

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/75567771-S.jpg

Well, that's all for now. Plan to ride out to San Diego and back the week before and of July 4. Zoom zoom. Will add some sightseeing to that trip - up to Mount Rushmore and back through Wisconsin.

Ride safe!

[Bones]

Bob,
You are one ambitious son of a bitch, I must say! I love reading your posts, even if it does make me feel like my riding volume is piss. Great pics, too.

As far as I can figure out, you live about 6 1/2 hours from me. With the way you ride, we could meet up for lunch around here and you could be home by dinner sometime.

Keep it coming, bro'. I love this stuff.

Jeff

[Promethean]

Bones...check out his top speed on this trip and the average. Bob must have been hauling ass.

[BobFV1]

Bob,
You are one ambitious son of a bitch, I must say! I love reading your posts, even if it does make me feel like my riding volume is piss. Great pics, too.

As far as I can figure out, you live about 6 1/2 hours from me. With the way you ride, we could meet up for lunch around here and you could be home by dinner sometime.

Keep it coming, bro'. I love this stuff.

Jeff

Hey Jeff -

Delia and I are planning on riding Five Charlie up to Vermont for the MOA National Rally at the end of July - I will coordinate with you and it would be fun to get together!

Mean time, I am planning my ride out to San Diego, leaving in 9 days - got to get ready.....

[Bones]

Hey Jeff -

Delia and I are planning on riding Five Charlie up to Vermont for the MOA National Rally at the end of July - I will coordinate with you and it would be fun to get together!

Mean time, I am planning my ride out to San Diego, leaving in 9 days - got to get ready.....


Bob,
Let's check dates you are coming through towards and back from the rally. Open invite for you and Delia to stay with us. Good food, drink and plenty of room at our place. Plus a few MC's in the garage to play around with and some good day rides right from our house.

Jeff

[geechie]

Bob,

My envious side wants me to say that you're having way too much fun, but deep in this chest beats the heart of a peckerhead. Ride on, dude!

George

Oh, and thanks for taking the time and trouble DJ your ride so well.

G